Upper Shannon Estuary
Even
with so much magnificence to tempt you back out onto the Atlantic
coast, it would be a shame to miss the shelter of the Shannon itself
for a short cruise. It is entirely possible to sail all the way
to Limerick with as many anchorages in between as you choose, but
by making full use of the 'conveyor-belt' tides and the flexibility
conferred by the lock, simply day-sailing from Kilrush can provide
diversion in plenty.
Upstream, rocky shores give way to soft mudbanks. These open up
the possibility of drying out alongside the various cut-stone quays
to all but the most extreme fin-keelers. Most of the little towns
have these, and there are others in deserted spots where you will
only be disturbed by shell-duck, oyster catchers and the ever present
skylarks. In order to encourage cruising, Shannon Development propose
to install a number of visitor moorings along the lines of those
pioneered by the Scottish Highlands and Islands Development Board.
These will be laid and administered by local community groups.
It is well established that when a yacht calls in a locality she
generally spends far more than her mooring fees up in the town,
so once again, there are no losers in this far-sighted arrangement.
The government supplies the investment, yachtsmen benefit from properly
controlled facilities, while the local community reaps the overall
pay-off. The area is more self-sufficient, which ultimately eases
the government's revenue commitment, bringing the wheel full-circle.
At
Foynes, you can anchor in front of the fine old house that was home
to Conor O'Brien, that controversial sailor who circumnavigated
in the 1920's aboard his small brigantine ketch yacht Saoirse, writing
a swashbuckling account of his adventurhis book 'Across Three Oceans'.
A couple of cables away you could well find a 50,000 tonner discharging
at the new jetties, but the town remains well worth a visit, not
least to the famous Flying Boat Museum which commemorates those
hectic days when Foynes played a key role in pioneering the air
routes across the Atlantic.
Here is the old and the new rubbing shoulders with surprising ease.
You need to shove your mind firmly into freewheel to cope with the
juxtaposition of industry and rural decay, but it works and its
definitely real. This is no tourist trap. It is the raw Atlantic
seaboard of Ireland, ever a jumping off point. It helps to remember
that sixty years ago, these same waters echoed to the thunder of
aero-engines as the flying boats took off with the sun, bound for
the New World.Four miles upstream of Foynes, for those who enjoy
a spot of ditch-crawling, lies the lovely Askeaton Creek. Unmarked
in items past, this diminutive waterway is now roughly buoyed by
Kim Roberts who operates a boatyard. Her yard stands immediately
above a tiny quay decorated with ancient boats sleeping away their
retirement as flower gardens, but there is nothing whimsical about
the work done in this classic little yard. Next
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