 |
Lower Shannon Estuary
Downstream
from Kilrush, the first stop is to anchor in decent holding and
admire the castle at Carrigaholt. You can have a drink as well if
you've a mind to, but my own choice for an exciting pint will always
be the partially open anchorage of Kilbaha a couple of miles inside
Loop Head. Here, with the Atlantic shouting around the corner, you
will find two pubs, one of which promises the last pint before New
York. Its barmaid, who pulls a pint that could claim to be the finest
in Ireland and has a smile to match, comes of Irish parents, was
raised in England, lived much of here life in America and now tends
bar on the ocean's edge. How could a sailor drink anywhere else?
Before you enter Kilrush Marina for the last time to complete your
Shannon Estuary cruise, you must choose your evening and anchor
off Scattery. Row ashore after dark when the visitors have returned
to their hearth fires, and wander among the ruins. Venus might be
setting over America, and far up the estuary will ride the lights
of today's economy.
But as you stand inside the round tower and watch the rising moon
filter through the slit windows that warded off the Norsemen a thousand
years before, you'll know that in the west, the past and the future
all somehow run into one.
And then it's back into the shelter of the marina and the warm hospitality
of John Hehir and his friendly staff, back to the returning vitality
of Kilrush and a song accompanied pint and the best of craic in
the lively pubs where you are reminded that Clare is Ireland's most
musical county. And Kilrush is the place where the new life of County
Clare is manifesting itself, with its traditional horse fair and
ancient tunes vibrantly interacting with the vigour which has been
brought by this fine harbour development. Back
to Intro
|