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Kilrush
In
the strong tidal steam that has carried shipping since men traded
in skin boats to Brittany and beyond, you are up to Scattery before
you know it. Improbably, in an area so recently depressed, the island
hides a dredged channel to a modern lock gate, manned whenever you
need it by John Hehir, marina manager and his friendly staff. Within
the lock is Kilrush Marina, built in just the right style to be effective
without giving offence to the dreamer. It has been created out of
a muddy tidal creek about which people have always said, 'Wouldn't
it be a grand thing if the tide never fell at Kilrush?" Nowadays,
it never does. Thanks to the vision of the Shannon Development Company
and a positive relationship with Brussels, the tide has been retained.
Nature has not been so much defeated as harnessed in a modest way,
and the mariner can turn in to enjoy the sort of sleep anyone deserves
who has sailed this far.
Kilrush, a designated Heritage Town with an ancient maritime tradition
and a bang up-to-date marina which has been given the coveted EU Blue
Flag accreditation, first strikes the visiting sailor as an archetypal
Irish
community. A wide, straight street leads up from the waterfront, lined
with clearly proportioned and bravely painted shops, bars and houses.
A couple of pints, perhaps, before spilling out into the street to
choose a restaurant for dinner, but as you settle down with a large
Irish coffee afterwards you might begin to wonder why these towns
are built as they are.Kilrush is an example of the type of settlement
known as an 'Estate Town'. It exists as a memorial to the 'landlord
days' and as such is a not-always-comfortable reminder of Ireland's
passionate and difficult history. Ironically, it was not a British,
but a Dutch family who brought the town into being and were responsible
through good deeds and bad for steering it to within twenty years
of Ireland's independence.James Vandeleur established an estate north
of Kilrush as early as 1630, but things did not initially go smoothly.
After being badly knocked about in the rebellion of 1641, his position
was confirmed by Cromwell and in due course his son Giles became High
Sheriff of the county. A relative arrived in Kilrush in 1688 and promptly
rented a large parcel of land which was duly planted, consolidated
and passed down in the family. The subsequent progress of the area
reflects the ebb and flow of the times.In 1808, an opulent mansion
was built overlooking the Shannon while the wars between England and
France were in full swing. Business was booming everywhere and, in
Ireland, considerable prosperity was enjoyed as orders flowed in for
grain and other basics which the land could readily produce. The Vandeleur
incumbent saw the potential of his little port and made a positive
decision to develop the town. Next
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